MountOne | PET Assembly.

 

Don't Panic!

This guide is 99% images.

Index.

If you would like to develop MountOne yourself or wish to help support my further development of the MountOne, detailed drawings, datasheets and STEP files are available by downloading the MountOne CAD Packs, or purchasing one of The MountOne Hardware Kits.

Printed Parts.

The MountOne & Astrographs were developed with Bambu Lab PLA-CF. Final testing and checks were performed with Bambu Lab PETG-CF. Parts were printed using E3D's High Flow ObXidian 0.4mm Nozzles. I recommend PETG-CF for the MountOne and Astrographs. For best results, dry your filament before use.

Full details on how to print these parts are in The PET Printed Parts Documentation.

Fixings.

The PET Hardware Kit includes the following required fixings.

  • 20 x M5 20mm Screws for Plastic.
  • 7 x M8 Rivnuts.
  • 6 x M8 Feet.
  • 3 x 80mm Long, 8mm Diameter Bars.
  • 1 x M8 90mm Hex Bolt.
  • 1 x 32mm Spirit Level.
  • 1 x Nylon Washer.
  • 1 x DC Female Sockets
  • 1 x DC Male Plugs.

If you have downloaded the MountOne PET CAD Pack, there is a full BOM inside.

The Wedge.

The wedge attaches to the base of the MountOne in place of the Tripod Mount. It too requires that power cables go through it.

The DC Jack & Socket and supplied with The MountOne Hardware Kit.

Cut a ~150mm length of cable (use the cable that came with the Angled DC Jack in The MountOne Hardware Kit).

Cut, strip, and tin one end. Stagger their lengths, making the Positive wire (the one with the white strip) slightly longer.

Remove and discard the nut and washer from the DC Socket.

Add short lengths of heatshrink.

Solder the wires with the positive wire (the one with the white strip) soldered to the centre pin.

Heat shrink the heatshrink.

Pass the unused end of the cable through the hole in the wedge as shown.

Firmly press the DC Socket into the wedge.

Strip the end of the wires, staggering the ends as before, and pass them through the DC Jack's case.

You'll only need a single length of heatshrink on the positive wire.

Solder on the wires, heat shrink the heatshrink and crimp the crimp.

Then replace the case on the DC Jack.

Indicators.

I am using lengths of white PETG-HF filament from a DryAF Spool.

Cut to ~40mm.

You will require sixteen of them.

They are used as indicators for the Polar Alignment.

Firmly press a length into each slot. The slots may require reaming to ~1.8mm.

Cut the lengths flush with the edge.

Repeat on the other side.

The last two are on the base.

Level Up.

A 32mm circular level indicator is supplied with The PET Hardware Kit.

Test-fit the indicator, but do NOT push it all the way in.

You'll need to find a known flat surface which we will use to correctly install the level into the base. I happen to have a small glass mirror.

Apply gel cyanoacrylate glue around the inside of the pocket as shown.

Place the level into the socket, but do NOT push it down.

Keeping the flat surface as level as possible, slowly insert the level.

Remove the flat surface. Do NOT touch the level.

I leave the glue to set overnight. Do not touch the level at any point until the glue has set.

The Clamp.

The Clamp anchors the polar alignment angle.

A rivnut is inserted into the printed part to anchor the knob.

Ensure the M8 Rivnut is fully seated into the clamp.

The Leg Base.

Three M8 Rivnuts are pressed into the Leg Base.

The Adjusters.

Levelling is controlled with three adjusters. These adjusters are made from three M8 Feet and three printed 'cups'.

These need to be a tight fit. However, you may still need to ream the 8mm holes.

Align the hex before pressing down.

The Adjusters are installed into the three previously installed rivnuts.

The Left & Right Legs.

The legs have feet.

Press in a rivnut.

Screw in a foot.

Repeat.

The Front Leg.

Similar to above, this leg has a foot too.

The Knob.

The knob is for tightening the clamp used to set polar alignment.

Insert the M8 bolt into the knob hole.

Ensure the hex aligns and the bolt seats fully into the knob. Apply some gel cyanoacrylate glue inside.

Fit the knob cap.

Install the nylon washer along the knob's shaft.

Power Lines.

The PET runs power from the base to the MountOne up top. 

We shall begin with the DC Socket from The PET Hardware Kit, and the remnants of the cable from the Angled DC Jack from The MountOne Hardware kit. You may, of course, use your own cables.

Remove, and discard, the nut and washer from the DC Socket.

Strip the ends off the length of cable, and tin.

Add heatshrink.

Solder, with the white strip for positive in the centre.

Heat shrink the heatshrink.

Assembly.

The cable is fed through multiple parts during assembly.

Begin with the leg base, feed the cable through the hole at the front.

Press in the DC Socket.

Pass the cable though the base of the EQ Base and out the top.

You'll need to remove the two adjusters on the corners.

Seven M5 20mm Screws For Plastic fix the two parts together. Do not install a screw into the position highlighted in red.

Refit the adjusters in the corners.

The clamp is installed into the Base.

Note the rounded right end.

Insert the rounded end first.

Pass the wire into the Base.

You'll need to leave some slack in the channel so the Base can move back and forth.

Insert the knob into the EQ Base via the hole at the front.

Check the nylon washer is still on the shaft.

Align the rivnut to the bolt.

Tighten the bolt. The knob doesn't have to be super tight to fix the polar alignment.

DC Jack.

Measure the cable as shown, and cut at 80mm.

Pass the wires through the DC Jack's case.

Strip, tin, solder and heatshrink the wires to the DC Jack.

Refit the DC Jack's case.

Installing The Front Leg.

The legs are held in with 8mm bars. The same bars used in The MountOne.

Insert a bar from the side.

Align the Front Leg into the slot.

Push it in.

An M5 20mm Screw For Plastic stop the bar from coming out.

Installing The Left & Right Legs.

An almost identical process retains the Left & Right Legs.

Make sure to check you have the correct leg before installing the bar.

The Side Covers.

Two small plates cover the access holes for the bars.

Glamour Shots.

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